Here is the CPU block with the 939 bracket.  Underneath the bracket, you can see the channels for the fluid to flow.

     Here we have the bottom of the CPU block.  The block is fully copper, with a pretty smooth interface area.  Not quite a mirror finish, but pretty close.

     The front of the radiator sports a built in 120mm fan with the ½ inch fittings on the bottom.  The radiator is designed so that it can use the exhaust fan of your PC to help with cooling the system.

     The back of the radiator shows us the actual heat dissipation surface, as well as the mounting holes.  This is important to note, as this will affect our installation later.

     This kit utilizes a reservoir/pump combo.  The inlet is at the top next to the fill port, and the pump pushes the water out to the side.   The reservoir also makes use of sensors to detect water level and temperature, and will turn off your PC if there is a problem.

     Here is one of the defining features of this kit, the GBT Splitter Valve.  Install two of these into your loop, and you have an easy way to add cooling potential to your system.  All you have to do is add the lines, open the valves, and add fluid to the reservoir.

Installation:

     Now we get to the fun part.  The first step is to read the instruction manual and get an idea as to how to go about getting this project together.  The Galaxy comes with two instruction manuals, a “Quick Start Guide” and a full manual.  Both utilize subpar translations, so the pictures are about the best thing to guide us.

     The first big question was how to put the kit together, leak test it, and then install it into the system without putting my computer at risk.  Since the tubing runs both in and out of the case, through the PCI bracket, the only way to accomplish this was to install the kit into the case, remove all my other components, and then leak test. 

     First I will get the tubing laid out.  The best way to do this is to install all the major components into your system, and cut your tubing to length.  This will help to avoid any clearance issues later on.  As you cut the tubing, attach the tubing with the fittings to the various components in the system.   While most ATX chassis will install the same, there are a few odd cases out there that might require some more planning to work.  The Danger Den Water Box Plus is one of them.  Though the Water Box is designed with water cooling in mind, the 3D Galaxy II is designed with ATX in mind, so I had to make some modifications for the kit to work in this box. 

     For the routing in my case, I started off with the CPU block.  After the tubing is cut, slide the clamp over the end of the tubing, push the tubing onto the fitting, then clamp over the area where the tubing is attached.

     Next up was installing the PCI bracket.  Both send and return from the radiator is routed through here.  Most ATX chassis will set the bracket up on the bottom slot, however, on the Danger Den case, the easiest way is to set the bracket up in the first slot, so you don’t have to maneuver around the GPU. 

Both the send and return lines are attached to the radiator, and clamped down over the fittings.